Debi Lander
email@floridanewsline.com
Naples, Italy, seems to be often neglected, overlooked and underrated. Most travelers use Naples as a base for tours to Pompeii and the picturesque villages clinging to the Amalfi Coast. Still, the city’s charm should be explored. While we highly recommend seeing Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast during our stay, we’re so glad we added an amazing 3 days in the city. Honestly, we wish we could have stayed longer.
The Naples Archaeological Museum is one of the most magnificent museums in the world. What began as a palace in the days of Naples’ kings is now a treasure trove of priceless ancient artefacts, sculptures, art and furniture. We marvelled at the beauty of the 2,000-year-old mosaic floors, jewels and vases in a building that still feels like a palace.
When excavations of Pompeii began in the 1700s, the king ordered that all the best finds be sent to him, so when you visit the ruins you’ll mainly see replicas of the artworks that adorned this mountain town. The originals are carefully kept in the Naples Archaeological Museum, including the famous erotic art in the Secret Rooms. These authentic gems are definitely worth seeing. Additionally, the museum is home to the incredible Farnese Collection, a display of colossal statues from Rome’s Baths of Caracalla. I felt tiny next to these colossi.
Like other Italian cities and towns, Naples has many ornate churches. But a small private chapel surpasses the golden icons. The Sansevero Chapel is home to the magnificent Veiled Christ, sculpted in 1753. A life-size marble statue of the crucified Christ rests on a pillow covered with a flowing translucent covering. The statue, carved from a single block of Carrara marble, is mesmerizing. Peeking through the stones, you can almost imagine a spell being cast on it. The piece is considered one of the most amazing sculptures on the planet.
A few metres away is another astonishing piece, “Liberation from Deception”, where fishing nets surround figures also carved from marble. The tangled nets are so complex that they represent reality. Don’t miss the Sansevero Chapel.
Caravaggio, a famous artist known for his dramatic use of light, fled Rome for Naples after he was accused of murdering a man. In 1607, Caravaggio painted his mesmerizing “Seven Acts of Mercy” above the high altar of the Church of Misericordia, which can still be seen today. This masterpiece depicts the seven virtues and is said to have been an act of atonement for his own sins. Sadly, the artist was murdered on his way back to Rome, leading to his pardon. Caravaggio died at the age of 37 and left behind very few masterpieces. Don’t miss this opportunity.
Walking through the narrow, crowded alleys of Naples, you will see local artisans carving cameos and presepi: miniature to life-sized nativity figures made by skilled craftsmen for display as keepsakes, cheaper presepi dressed in traditional costumes, with the costumes of villagers in motion, and a newer, kitschy form of presepi: figurines of pop entertainers and athletes.
Naples’ history also includes ancient Roman ruins that lie beneath today’s streets, which several tours take visitors to, and the city also has three funicular railways that transport visitors up the hill for fantastic harbor views.
Remember, pizza originated in Naples? Once you’ve worked up an appetite after exploring the walkable historic center, be sure to indulge in a delicious thick pie. But my favorite is the one at Seafront Pasta Bar, where a team of chefs prepare mouthwatering pasta dishes fresh right in front of you as you sit at the bar. So good, it’s better than Food Network.
Some might call Naples rough, but it does have its gems – we just needed more time and missed the Opera House, the Castle, the Royal Palace and the Hanging Gardens.
If you go, I highly recommend the Rick Steves guidebook.
To read more stories and travel tips from local travel author Debi Lander, visit www.bylandersea.com
Photo by Debi Lander
Crowded alley.
